Monsoon magic of Dudhsagar Waterfalls

India as a sub-continent is blessed with the unique distinction of having all the World's different climatic conditions within the geographical boundaries of a single Country.Monsoon season is one such climatic condition that transforms parts of the Country into a evergreen carpet of rain-forests  and at its worst creates flood havoc along the major riverbanks.

Topographical map of the "Hike to Dudhsagar Waterfalls".

The Western Ghats mountain range also  known as the Sahyadri mountains which means the " Benevolent Mountains" runs parallel to the Western coast of India having a total length of 1600 Kms. from North to South.This mountain range is  at its best evergreen beauty during the Monsoon season with numerous waterfalls at various points along the mountain path range.

Reached "Madgao Station" ot 0330 hrs in heavy rain. 

The Dudhsagar Waterfalls located in the Sanguem Taluka of Goa is a major Monsoon trek attraction for adventurers from the State of Maharashtra due to its close proximity. Decided to join the trek group "Travel Trikon" for experiencing this awesome monsoon trek in the wild forests of the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary of the Western Ghats in the State of Goa.Dudhsagar is situated about 60 Kms from Panaji by road and by the rail network is situated on the Madgaon- Belgavi rail route. I had previously done two nature tours with Mr Manoj.Kalwar, the co-founder of "TravelTrikon" when he was employed with another tour group and hence contacted him regarding this particular tour.The total charges for the trek tour was Rs 2950 and after  the necessary formalities payed a advance deposit of Rs 2000 by a bank transfer to "Trikon Travel" .Thus confirmed my participation in this once in a lifetime trekking tour of 24 Kms from Kulem to Dudhsagar and back to Kulem.

Our 1 hr jeep drive from Madgao to Kulem.

Dudhsagar translated from Hindi into the English language means a "Sea of milk" as this 4 tiered waterfall resembles a mist of milky white spray of gushing water while  dropping from a height of  310 meters (1017 ft) with a average width of 30 meters (100 ft) at its broadest end. Its peak volume  flow of water is from June  upto the end of the monsoon season in September and  is the 5th highest waterfall in India while  ranking  291 among the highest waterfalls in the World. All the Western Ghat waterfalls are fed by the seasonal  Monsoon rain water and hence most small waterfalls are totally dry during the summer months.I did not want to miss the annual "Monsoon Magic" of viewing the Dudhsagar waterfall at its zenith besides experiencing the once in a lifetime  tedious adventure of trekking through a wildlife sanctuary in the Western Ghats in order to reach this waterfall.I have done all my Sahyadri monsoon hill fort treks in normal jogging shoes and on more than one occasion almost came a cropper due to the soles of my shoes opening and hence decided to wear original trekking shoes for the strenuous Dudhsagar trek.As i have  a large collection of footwear  didn't want to purchase a pair of "Trek Shoes" just for a single strenuous trek  and hence "Travel Trikon" got me in touch with Mr Rushi.Narang of "www.SharePal.in" that rents trekking gear to tour groups. This  is a new concept on the Indian trekking circuit of Mumbai and  decided to experiment on this innovative  hire scheme of  "Trekking gear".                                                         Hired a pair of "Trek Shoes" for two days at a hire rental  of Rs 49/day and a deposit of Rs 250.For the first time in my life i had hired a pair of shoes and "Daddy Cool" was all set to test another milestone of   fitness on the strenuous "Dudhsagar Trek".

Start of the long 12 Kms trek from Kulem to Dudhsagar.

Departure Mumbai Saturday(16-9-2017) :- : - There was a drizzle in the morning followed by a light shower of rainfall. Left home early as usual and after a combination of bus(Nos 162) from Prabhadevi  and a train journey from Sewri to Tilak Nagar  reached "LTT" station at 1330 hrs. After a long wait on platform No 4  met my co-trekkers  which was a  group of three young professional executive  ladies Ms Manisha.Das, Ms Havovi.Muladwalla and Ms Charmi.Gala .I was surprised that we were just five   trekkers including myself , the smallest trekking or tour group in my entire trekking expeditions akin to a personalized private tour. Excellent. Later  Mr Yuvraj .Sagvekar , the trek leader and part time  employee  of " Travel Trikon" arrived  at the platform  and we five boarded   bogie No S 4 and occupied our reservation berths 57,58,59,60,61 and 62.Mr Yuvraj.Sagvekar told us that one lady  trekker would be joining us in Kulem and hence i was the lone "Daddy Cool" trekker among this  young group of  profession executive  trekkers.Don't the Japanese excel in scaling Mt Everest in their 80's ?

Trek leader Mr Yuvraj.Sagvekar leading us 5 trekkers.

                                                        The "12619 Matsyagandha "  train departure was punctual at 1520 hrs.A excellent train journey in cool pleasant weather with my  travel compatriots engrossed in a game of cards while i kept myself busy browsing the internet.We all got to know each other better and seems we were a small batch of trekkers as it was the fag end of the  "Dudhsagar Monsoon" trek tour organized by "Travel Trikon".In the previous  batch there were over 50 trekkers which was definitely a big crowd according to my numerous trekking experiences with various different tour groups over the decade.Had a good nights sleep and at 0330 hrs we reached Madgao station  in pouring rain.

The break of dawn and continuation of the Trek.

                                                                                                               We were in the midst of a freak monsoon season in Goa and Mumbai which was excellent for our arduous 24 Kms trek.From the Station we walked in the drizzle to our waiting jeep and at 0345 hrs began our 38 Kms road  journey from Madgao to Kulem .It was a beautiful and pleasant long drive to Kulem in pitch darkness and continuous rain.At approximately 0445 hrs we reached Kulem  and first collected our local guide Mr Tukaram. Next we collected  co-trekker  Mrs Anuja.Nair , a banking executive residing in a hotel.We deposited our bags in the jeep carrying the bare essentials  in our individual backpacks for the long 24 Kms to and fro trek to Dudhsagar Falls from startling point Kulem.

Mr Tukaram, our local Goan guide

.At 0500 hrs the 6 of us trekkers along with guide Mr Tukaram began the walk to Dudhsagar in pitch darkness and a continuous drizzle of rain  with the help of our  torchlight's. From  Kulem  we walked parallel to the railway tracks and later another half an hour on the tracks itself. Three trains passed us along and it was a experience standing below the tracks watching the train pass along.This was a walk i was experiencing for the first time in my life and it was frightening as well as adventurous . Thankfully was wearing the right shoes and realized that ordinary track  jogging shoes would have split while walking on the rock stones of the railway tracks.I will now give a pictorial description of our "Mission 24 Kms Kulem-Dudhsagat-Kulem" trek.

At 0630 hrs came across this small cashew plantation  in the midst of  the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary.This small village hut is used for brewing the famous "Goa Cashew Feni" liquor.

The narrow forest pathway had patches of accumulated rainwater  as it had rained heavily the previous day and here is Trek leader Mr Yuvraj. Sagvekar walking along the slush. Trekking is never a easy road walk even on a straight forest pathway. 

At 0645 hrs we arrived at our first rest stop which was a small village settlement housing forest officials of the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary.This was a small canteen in the settlement that supplied trekker's with breakfast or  snacks.

DANGEROUS  RIVER STREAM CROSSING :- At 0730 hrs came across our first walk along a gushing stream.In peak monsoon the water flow would be tremendous and dangerous if a trekker slipped on  the pathway .

Our first glimpse of "DUDHSAGAR WATERFALLS" on the distant mountain  through the deciduous rain-forest of the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary. At 0745 hrs we entered the Dudhsagar Waterfalls entrance gate to the bottom of the waterfalls.Fromm the bottom of the waterfalls it was a long strenuous uphill trek to the main railway bridge tracks.

At 0800 hrs trekked up to the peak of the small hill and made the final walk along this railway trek towards  the "DUDHSAGAR RAILWAY BRIDGE"

Finally the "Light at the end of  train  Tunnel's 12 and 13 " after the long arduous hill trek from the base of "Dudhsagar Waterfall" park onto the main train railway bridge.

Finally at 0815 hrs emerging from the hill train tunnels  after the 12 Kms trek from Kulem the sight of "DUDHSAGAR WATERFALLS" from the railway bridge was awesome  and to be seen personally rather than described in print. DUDHSAGAR WATERFALLS drops  from a height of  310 meters (1017 ft) with a average width of 30 meters (100 ft) at its broadest end finally flows down into the valley below. We were lucky as the weather favoured our trek with a continuous light drizzle of rain. The "Dudhsagar waterfalls" became famous in India and the world  after the 2013  Hindi film "Chennai Express"  which was partly filmed on this location of the railway bridge.

A "SELFIE"  with the infamous Rhesus Macaque pack monkeys  of  Dudhsagar railway bridge . These troop of Macaques keep a watch on Trekker's and are quick at  grabbing a trekker's bag or food. A monkey pried open my backpack but to its utter disgust found it empty  realizing  its monkey tricks yielded zero dividends !

Early morning mist on the Dudhsagar Railway Bridge. A part of the 2013 released  Hindi film "CHENNAI EXPRESS" was filmed at this locale which gave the waterfalls a all India publicity. Since then this locale has been crowded with tourist trekkers and has also resulted in accidental deaths of trekkers due to train accidents or drowning in the monsoon waterfalls.At present there is a restriction for trekking to this bridge and after 0845 hrs its a offence for trekkers  to walk  on this bridge.

 DUDHSAGAR WATERFALLS drops  from a height of  310 meters (1017 ft) with a average width of 30 meters (100 ft) at its broadest end finally flows down into the valley below as seen  from  the other side of the railway bridge.A indescribable beautiful sight worth the 12 Kms trek from Kulem.

WILDLIFE SPOTTING ON DUDHSAGAR RAILWAY BRIDGE :- A baby monkey suckling its mother while its compatriot is checking the fur for lice.

On the return journey from Dudhsagar railway bridge at 0915 we had a dip in the gushing river stream  of the Bottom waterfalls. I am a regular  2 Kms swimmer at the "M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai and for the first time in my life felt helpless in the shallow gushing stream . The bottom had jagged slippery rocks with boulder's all over the stream as seen in the photograph. i had to clutch onto the rocks to keep my balance as a slip meant being washed away with the flow of the current into the river and crashing onto a rock.Even a Olympic class swimmer would drown in this rapid flow after crashing into a boulder.

"Travel Trikon" Trekkers in the Dudhsagar  waterfalls Bottom  stream.

Our last view of Dudhsagar Waterfalls from the bottom  on our way back to Kulem .

"Travel Trikon" Trekkers (L to R) at Entrance/Exit  to Dudhsagar Waterfalls Bottom  with the "Trikon Sign". :- Mr Rudolph.Furtado, Ms Charmi.Gala, Ms Havovi.Muladwalla ,Ms Manisha Das, Mrs Anuja.Nair and Mr Yuvraj. Sagvekar.

The trek back to Kulem through the beautiful dense Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary. In between  at 1045 hrs we stopped at the forest officials village restaurant for our breakfast.

A Cashew Plantation farmer near the forest officials village clearing a small plot of his land for cashew plantation.

On our daylight return journey trek back to Kulem at 1200 hrs  we came across other groups of trekkers and here we are crossing from the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary onto the railway tracks.We all are waiting for the train to pass us in order to walk safely on the railway tracks.

"DEVIL'S CANYON" :- In the Western Ghats forests certain parts of the forest within the villages are considered "SACRED FORESTS" by the local villagers and hence protected from destruction on religious grounds.In the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary there are various such religious sites and this particular canyon on the banks of the river flowing below is called "Devil's Canyon" .Here Local guide Mr Tukaram is explaining us the bizarre death occurrences in this particular spot by strangers who ignored the religious sanctity of the locale. Mostly tourists or outsider's from city's. Science still cannot explain certain strange phenomenon  and "Devil's Canyon" near Kulem in the  Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary is one such locale.

Motorcycle taxi's between Kulem and Dudhsagar Bottom and back to Kulem :-  Our last leg of the 24 Kms journey was crossing this railway track  from the forests back into Kulem. Came across these daredevil "Motorcycle Taxi's" that transport trekkers and locals to Dudhsagar waterfalls base and back again to Kulem at a cost of Rs 1000/person.These Motorcycle taxi's are authorized by the forest department to carry a  double seat passenger who is also given a life jacket on arrival at the bottom of Dudhsagar Waterfalls.Notice the narrow sludge  pathway along the railway tracks through which these motorcycles travel and is definitely not a taxi ride for the faint hearted.

At 1330 hrs our "Mission Dudhsagar 24 Kms Trek " which began at 0500 hrs finally came to a end when we reached our beautiful village resort " Dudhsagar Riverside Guesthouse" in Kulem. It started raining heavily after we arrived  at the guesthouse and we were hoping that the train service wouldn't get cancelled or be late. After a refreshing bathe in this excellent moderately  priced resort we gathered at 1430 hrs  in the dining hall for a excellent vegetarian lunch.After lunch trekker Mrs Anuja.Nair left by a taxi to the airport to board the flight to Mumbai.The rest of us would be travelling back to Mumbai by train.The Owner of the guesthouse  Mr Piety. Fernandes's daughter is a excellent artist and a fan of late Goan  cartoonist Mr Mario.Miranda.The entire guesthouse has beautiful caricatures based on Mario.Miranda style of Goa as shown in the hilarious drawing of a cyclist carrying wares in a basket on his head.Excellent village style guesthouse with the ideal flavour of Goa and Goan lifestyle. At 1630 hrs we left the guesthouse in our jeep and headed to Kulem railway station.We boarded the 1720 hrs shuttle train from Kulem to Madgao which was a one hour journey.

At 1830 hrs we reached Madgao station. Having recently visited Lisbon in July was hoping to purchase the famous "Goa Chowriza sausages" but was told that on Sunday all the major  shops in Madgao would be closed. Goan lifestyle was a replica of Classic Lisbon as Goa was a former Portuguese colony..Due to the heavy rainfall our train was expected to be delayed  by a hour and hence we sat down in this railway restaurant in Madgao station .I had a dinner of "Fish Vindaloo" at this railway restaurant  called "Benjoe Restaurant" expecting excellent Goan style fish curry rice.Absolutely disappointed and almost suffered a major stomache upset.Our train finally arrived at 2020 hrs  and we boarded compartment S9  and occupied our berths.It was a pleasant journey and  the next morning Mr Yuvraj..Sagvekar and Ms Manisha.Das alighted at Thane station .At 0720 hrs the train reached "L.T.T" station and Ms Charmi.Gala, Ms Havovi.Muladwalla  and myself  alighted headed towards our homes.All my young Co-trekkers had to report to office or their private business while i would be busy writing my blog on the " Mission Dudhsafar 24 Kms Trek". Travel and writing  about my travel experiences is a passion that keeps me busy as also preventing me from the disease called "Writer's Block".End of a excellent trek ,one of the best treks among my tours in India.Was finally at home in Prabhadevi at 0820 hrs.

NOTE :-  All the opinions expressed are my own and this description of my  trek with "TRAVEL TRIKON" trekkers group  is  my personal view .

Link to my previous Solo travel adventure across Europe :- https://scandinaviawesterneurope.blogspot.in/